SoftSand Provides Non-Slip Surface for Dog Agility Equipment
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We have a testimonial for you with regard to the use of Coarse Grade Soft Sand rubber particles
used to make a non-slip surface for dog agility equipment. I've enclosed several snapshots of our dog — Freckles —
using our just finished Teeter-Totter (or See-Saw) obstacle coated with Coarse Grade particles and
painted with Behr Outdoor Paint. The particles were broadcast on wet paint.
The board is a construction grade 2" x 2" x 12' that has two cleats holding it to the 1 ½" schedule 40
PVC pipe frame. The use rate was 1 pt. coarse grade particles for 12 square feet of Teeter-Totter board.
The particles were top-coated once. All paint was applied by brush.
We've constructed several dog agility obstacles for use in training our 2 ½ year old English Springer Spaniel
- Freckles. She has competed here in Arkansas as well as in Mississippi and Florida and has been
successful in winning ribbons and awards. Daily training is important and so our backyard agility course allows
for practice in between her weekly training classes.
We spent a great deal of time trying to find a product that would provide a non-slip surface for our dog on the
Teeter-Totter. Your SoftSand Rubber particles made the top of the Teeter-Totter into a wonderful non-slip surface.
Freckles moves up and down the board with ease and is sure-footed. SoftSand Rubber worked extremely well.
David & Bernadette, Little Rock, Arkansas, USA
New Non-Skid Deck Finish for a Cape Dory 30
Following is a letter from a satisfied customer:
A newly renovated non-skid deck is one job that,
for a moderate bit of effort, the results are big!
My boat, a 1981 CD30 had a deck with some gel coat
crazing (surface hairline cracks), stains, and most
important of all was lacking in non-skid in critical
areas. The cockpit sole and the boarding gate area
surfaces were quite smooth, due to years of use.
This was on my list of renovation projects for quite
a few years, and this summer I finally scheduled this
project, and I’m happy to report on the results.
First, I wanted to find a product that I like for
the non skid properties. The past couple of years I
visited boat show booths, and researched on the
internet to find my choice. Some manufacturers have
non-skid particles premixed in their paint, but
personally, I did not like the size of the particles
or the type of particle in use for the samples I
examined. I realized that for this custom job, I
will need to decide on my deck paint and then add
the non-skid particles that I like to the freshly
painted surface. I this way, I could control the
type and the amount of non-skid, and still get the
paint that I wanted. Also was the issue of color.
I wanted to keep my new deck color close as possible
to the existing one because I liked how it looked.
I decided on using Interlux Bright Side, a one part
polyurethane paint. I have used both the one part and
two part paints, and decided that for this job which will be
completed in the summer sun at portions of time, with the
interest of ease of use, that the one part polyurethane
to be the paint of choice for this project. However,
I could not find a color to match the existing boat deck,
so I experimented by buying a couple of quarts of beige
and decided to mix them. I got lucky and found that a 50/50 mix of
Interlux’s Grand Banks Beige and Bristol Beige
is an almost exact match to the original paint on my Dory!
In regard to the non-skid particles, I wanted to try a softer
rubber particle that would give me a superb non skid. I
also want to be able to kneel on my boat deck to varnish
the teak with a measure of comfort so that I’m not getting
skin abrasion therapy. I found some particles (used for
truck bed liners) to be oversized and downright obnoxious
for our beautiful pleasure craft, and some to be the
opposite; too small for a good grip when you really need
it in a seaway. After examining the samples I got form
the internet stores, I chose a product called SoftSand Rubber.
The company, SoftPoint Industries, is based in Copley, Ohio,
and specializes in manufacturing rubberized particles just for
non-skid use. Their particles have color pigment throughout and are not made
like other manufacturers from recycled car tires. I chose the
beige particle in a medium grade for size. At home, to be sure
of the final result, I experimented on a scrap piece of hardboard,
with the paint and particles, and I was quite satisfied with the sample.
The weather forecast looked good for the next couple of days,
so on with the job! To prepare the decks for epoxy filler and new paint,
I thoroughly cleaned the deck with Simple Green, a degreaser.
I then wiped the deck surface with a rag soaked in Interlux’s
Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. Any similar degreaser or solvent
cleaner would do, and be sure to wear protective gloves for your
skin. To fill in any hairline cracks and imperfections in the surface
I used the West Epoxy system, simply wiping it in with a latex gloved finger.
Since the cracks were so small, no filler additives were needed in the epoxy.
The next day, after the epoxy cured, I then power sanded the deck
surface with a coarse 80 grit, and blew off the dust with my yard blower.
After another wipe with solvent cleaner I then taped off the non- skid
area, using the 1’ wide and 2’ wide (for corners) blue painters tape.
This is the most time consuming of all of the steps, especially cutting
the rounded corners. I used a circle template to help outline the 2”
wide tape before cutting the corners. After the masking tape was down,
the easy part remained of placing the finish on.
I painted in sections of approximately 3 linear feet, because the
paint was setting up quickly in the heat, and I wanted the non-skid
particles to sit in the paint. For the non-skid placement I decided
on the “Broadcast” method instead of mixing the particles in the paint.
The broadcast method requires you to shake the particles on the painted
surface, out of a container that is similar to a salt dispenser.
In this way I could obtain a heavy coat of non-skid particles that
I desired. Mixing the particles in the paint is fine also, but will
result in a less dense non-skid. Remember the heavier the coat of
non-skid the more dirt you will tend to gather on deck, but in the
interest of a safety I applied the particles liberally and always
make sure to board my boat with clean shoes.
After broadcasting the particles in the previously painted section,
I continued to brush on more polyurethane, and then spread the particles.
Depending on the weather, you would have to monitor the set up time of the paint,
but if it is cool enough, you could do a whole non skid section at a time.
The next day, I vacumed the remaining non skid particles not adhered to the
paint with a shop vac, and placed the second coat of paint on. This coat of
paint brushed on slowly over the heavy base coat of non- skid particles.
The next day, I removed the tape and what I saw brought such a smile to my face.
The deck looked as if it just came out of the factory!
I completed sections of my deck in consecutive days, so that I could step on
other parts of the boat. The entire project was in the works for about a week.
After 4 months of use, I must say that I am very satisfied with the products
that I used and the appearance of my decks. Only time will tell how the new
non-skid will hold up, but I kept some spare paint and Soft Sand particles in
my workshop for any touchup’s if needed. I have sent in some photos of the
project although the print quality probably will not justify the beauty of
the new deck surfaces, which has to be seen in person and felt with bare feet!
Bob Emmons sails “Red Wing,” a CD30, out of Toms River, NJ.